TV News

This is a the TV item Anita mentioned in her comment on Day 7 (see picture of Lāsma and Kate on Day 4).
I downloaded it from YouTube ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh1x5hFQVLY&eurl=http://www.jekabpilslaiks.lv/index.php%3Fmod%3D1%26op%3Dout%26id%3D10357%26r%3DJekabpils&feature=player_embedded , so I am assuming there will be no copyright problems, as Vidusdaugavas TV put it there themselves. Should that not be the case, we have some pretty good lawyers on our side. I wonder if they got Graham's permission to use his carefully crafted route map from the blog, without mentioning the address!


For our Latvian readers (translation below), here is the extract from the Jēkabpils portal, www.jekabpilslaiks.lv:
Tiesnesis no Austrālijas jau otro reizi kājām šķērso Latviju
Pievienots: 03.08.2009 14:54

Greiems Andersons ir tiesnesis, kas ar ģimeni - sievu un divām meitām, dzīvo Melburnā, Austrālijā. Par savu hobiju viņš sauc pastaigu. Aizvadītajā vasarā Greiems devies aptuveni 700 kilometrus garā „pastaigā” no Krievijas robežas līdz pat Liepājai, bet šogad - no tālākā Latvijas dienvidu punkta pie Lietuvas robežas, līdz tālākajam ziemeļu punktam pie robežas ar kaimiņvalsti Igauniju. „Man ļoti patīk staigāt! Šogad pārgājiens ilgs tikai 11 dienas. Pagājušajā gadā es gāju 24 dienas. Šogad ir maz!” pastāstīja ceļotājs Greiems Andersons. Sagatavošanās darbi pirms paša pārgājiena jāveic ļoti rūpīgi – meklējot precīzas kartes, plānojot maršrutu, kā arī naktsmītnes ik pēc 30 līdz 40 kilometriem. Jāpiemin, ka 62 gadus vecais kungs neizvēlas īsāko ceļu pāri Latvijai, kas nozīmētu lielāko pārgājiena daļu mērot gar šosejām un lielceļiem. Ceļotājs labprātāk izvēlas klusākas un nomaļākas vietas, kas vijās caur mežu un saimnieciskās dzīves neskartām teritorijām. Latvijā Greiems Andersons viesojas jau astoto reizi. „Man ļoti patīk apskatīt dabu, kokus, putnus. Ceļā es satieku arī daudz cilvēku, ar kuriem mēģinu arī sarunāties," pastāstīja ceļotājs. Latviešu valodu Greiems Andersons apguvis pateicoties sievai Anitai, kuras vecāki ir latvieši. Arī ceļotāja meitas pārzinot latviešu valodu un brīvajā laikā labprāt te ciemojoties. Jēkabpilī Greiems ieradās pārgājiena ceturtajā dienā, bet 350 kilometru garo maršrutu viņš plāno pabeigt šajā nedēļas nogalē Igaunijas pierobežā. Ceļojumā gūtos iespaidus austrālietis fiksē arī savā interneta blogā.
Lāsma Skļarska

Link: www.jekabpilslaiks.lv/?mod=1&op=out&id=10357

Translation:
Australian judge crossing Latvia on foot for the second time
Graham Anderson, a judge, lives in Melbourne, Australia with his wife and two daughters. He says that walking is his hobby. Last summer, Graham went on an around 700-kilometre ‘walk’ from the Russian border all the way to Liepaja, but this year he is heading from Latvia’s southernmost point at the Lithuanian border to the northernmost point on neighbouring Estonia’s border. “I love to walk! This year’s walk is only 11 days. Last year I walked for 24 days. This year it’s a short one!” traveller Graham Anderson told us. The preparation for a walk like this needs to be done very carefully – finding accurate maps, planning the route, also the nightly stopovers every 30 to 40 kilometres. We should mention that our 62-year-old walker has intentionally not chosen the shortest route through Latvia, as this would have meant the majority of the walk being along main roads. He preferred to choose quieter and out-of-the-way places, making his way through forests and areas unscathed by human activity. This is already Graham Anderson’s eighth trip to Latvia. “I really enjoy observing nature, looking at trees and the birds. I meet many people along the way and try and have a chat with them” explained our traveller. Graham Anderson learned the Latvian language from his wife, Anita whose parents were Latvian. Graham’s daughters also speak Latvian and love to spend their holidays in our country. Graham reached Jēkabpils on the fourth day of his walk, but plans to complete his 350-kilometre route at the end of this week at the Estonian border. Graham is also recording the impressions of his trip in an internet blog.

Bench - daring to use GA's password.

Day 7 – Tuesday 4 August

Ērgļi to Gunta's [near Zaube]
29km [221km]; 6 hours 30 minutes
Weather fine

Where to start today? So much to say. Thanks to all my readers and commentators. I have reached Gunta's place. After cleaning up I read all the comments. I could spend hours responding.
Tomorrow I will have company on the long slog to Cēsis. Jānis is coming to Gunta's tonight after work. This is very appropriate as Gunta is Jānis' krustmāte [godmother]. Jānis is an architect. His father, Mārcis [Anita's cousin] and mother, Nita, are also architects. Jānis' brother, Matīss, is a civil engineer. He and his girlfriend, Oksana, will pick up Jānis from Cēsis tomorrow night.
I haven't seen Jānis since we competed in the World Rogaining Championships in September last year. Jānis and I had a great event and we completed about 85km in the 24 hours. If anyone is up to doing 50km first up [as we plan to do tomorrow], it is Jānis. I am very much looking forward to seeing Jānis tonight and Matīss and Oksana tomorrow.
It was neck and neck who would get to Zaube first. As it was, Gunta reached the turnoff from the main road as I was approaching from the other direction. I had decided that I should take the opportunity to visit Gunta's neighbours Astra and Uldis – they are about a km or so on the other side of the creek from Gunta's.
Five years ago, I stayed here for a few days with Gunta whilst Anita was at an ELJA [European Latvian Youth] congress. Gunta and Ziedonis had secured an old Soviet army map of the surrounding area, and with this, I was to do some 'rogaining'.
I set off expectantly each day but soon found that the maps [though only 50 years old] were well out of date. One day I found my way near to Astra's and Uldis' house but the track on the map just petered out. I asked for help and spent an hour or so talking with them. I remember that Astra was making butter in a large bowl. She still milks 4 cows by hand and keeps them penned inside for the 6 winter months.

Today, Astra was outside when I arrived and though surprised to have a visitor immediately placed me and was extremely welcoming. She had been baking for Uldis and two labourers who were out in the fields working. Astra fed me up – all the ingredients home-grown or produced. It was a glorious day today and their stone house surrounded by mature oaks, lush green fields and birch forest looked like paradise. I know the reality involves enormous effort. Astra and Uldis are in their seventies. Astra had been a doctor. She has helped restore Uldis to good health after he was kicked in the ribs by their horse a few weeks ago.

On the way back to Gunta's, I ran into the two workmen who were constructing traditional hay-stacks on wooden stands. They directed me to where Uldis was working on the tractor and we had a brief chat. Five years ago, Uldis and his 10-year-old grandson Reinis had shown me the path marked on the Soviet map – it was completely overgrown and unrecognisable as a track, and yet we came out exactly where the map showed.
Astra and Uldis are wonderful people and I am so glad I had time today to catch up again though we have passed on some news through Gunta over the intervening years.
I left late this morning. I had been told that breakfast could not be earlier than 8am because of the other 'man' who was staying there. I heard him come in last night, with his companion. He tried my door handle as he passed and when I yelled out, he muttered something in Russian. The walls were thin and when I was later woken by noises from their room, I was doubtful that I would see them at breakfast; and so it was.
I had about 4 lati left last night. I thought I wouldn't need much more money till tonight [when I knew Anita was sending some down with Gunta]. So last night I decided to buy a couple of necessities for today – water and bananas, etc. – to save time this morning. After that I was down to 2 lati and a few santīmi.
I had thought that breakfast was included in the price of the room. I found I was wrong soon after I finished my omelette – 2 lati 60 santīmi. I excused myself and said I would get the money from my room. 'Labi' [good], she said without smiling. I went to my room and checked Gunta's notes on my accommodation schedule – breakfast, 1-2 lati extra. I had 2 lati 4 santīmi [56 santīmi or about $A1:50 short. I went downstairs, 'I only have 2 lati 4 santīmi, I will go to the bank'. 'Labi'; no smiles. I put on my pack and walked to the bank – one km, and I passed the turnoff to the station on the way. And back again with the money. 'Labi', and perhaps a half smile.
I was back at the Ērgļi station at about 9am. The line closed about four years ago and Ērgļi had been the last stop. It will never reopen. The line has wooden sleepers which have deteriorated and there are some bridges that would need replacing.
I walked about 14km along the track to Līčupe. I then went into the town to photograph the muiža (manor house) where Lija had been on camp last year. Then a few km along the dusty road before rejoining the railway line for about 6 more km. Then about 8km to Gunta's via the neighbours.

The rail track walking was not as bad as I expected. In places the gravel was 3 or 4 cms below the top of the sleepers. They are also an inconvenient distance apart for comfortable striding. Sometimes I walked between the rails, sometimes outside them or on the gravel shoulder; overall I made reasonable time. The track was level and mostly shaded from quite a strong sun today. From Līčupe to Gunta's I reversed the route I took last year.
Anita has phoned to say that Rudīte and Andis [our good friends from Adelaide] had just seen me on TV, being interviewed and then walking away from the camera into the distance, focusing finally on my feet as I plod on. Anita is now on a mission to get a copy. She has phoned again – the news item is on the net and Anita is pleased with it.
Have just finished dinner with Gunta and Jānis. We are being well looked after by Gunta. We will try to leave by 7am tomorrow. After the first 15km, we will leave the busier road and will then be travelling on minor, quieter roads. Apparently storms are forecast in the afternoon.
I see from the latest blog comment that Anita and I are writing in tandem. Thanks again to Jāna for her daily update and the news of Lija's suspected swine flu [the local version is mežacūku (wild boar) flu]. And the Swedish Latvian contingent – it will be great to see Atis again [16 or so years ago was the last time. Kristīne was very small], and Matīss [I'm sure we did get an e-mail, or perhaps it was one from Sandra]. Matīss was taking the mickey, but Caroline has blown my cover – posing as a cross-country walker. Work will survive without us, though yesterday I sent an e-mail to Caroline at work because I suspected that, although she is also on holidays, she will drop in at work now and then. I had finished Ruth Rendell before leaving Singapore. Thanks for your remarks, Con; hope you take time away from your work for the important things. Arnis and Māra and Linda and Jānis are 3x3 friends; good to know you are travelling with me. John, glad you caught up with Anita. I will be staying at Mujāņi [west of Kocēni] on Thursday night; perhaps we can catch up then.
Juris is hassling me so I will finish. Tomorrow night, I hope to be blogging from the Bench household in Cēsis.

Day 6 – Monday 3 August

Mežezers to Ērgļi
31km [192km]; 6 hours 30 minutes
Weather fine

Dinner-time at Ērgļi. I arrived at 13:45 having left Mežezers at 07:15. No one was stirring and I had to use the fire escape to get out. It was a magical morning, sunny but crisp. Last night I talked with the manager[?], Imants, about the short cut across the top of the lake to join up with the Plaviņas to Ērgļi road.
The short cut was perfect – and Imants' description gave me the confidence to keep going. A couple of km of shady forest track. Imants and I talked of other things as well. In English – most younger Latvians have learnt at school.


Imants is a snowboard instructor having gained his skills on the Dāmu Paradīze run, which Mark will remember from Gaiziņkalns. Imants has snowboarded in a large number of countries including America and Austria, but also Georgia, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Romania. I am sure that any of those places would have more appeal than Mežezers. Though perhaps with a covering of snow it would be different – a deep covering.

I have had my second Frikadeļu soup of the day – I had one when I arrived. A traditional broth with vegetables, barley and mini meatballs. Followed tonight by fried fish and chips, though I was hoping for real potatoes. I was asked, but I just nodded. I have had very attentive service – I am the only customer. I drew the line at the television. It was turned on very loudly behind me and tuned to the BBC news. When it was suggested that I turn around and watch it while I eat, I had to insist that I disliked television at all times – it was then turned off. I thought also that I might hear some unpleasant sports news – though I am sure Juris [born in northern England before traveling to Oak Park, Victoria to marry Selga and coming to live with their two daughters in independent Latvia over 10 years ago] will tell me.
I have finished off with fruit and ice cream – bright orange in colour and with an unrecognisable taste. I was asked about breakfast. I said I didn't eat meat so we have settled on an omelette which will be ideal, though I will have to wait till 8am which will mean a late start.
I went for a walk around Ērgļi this afternoon. Saw the very flash new hotel I could have stayed at, but this way I am confident that some Latvians will benefit from my tourist lati [the local currency]. I also went to the cemetery and saw the grave of Rūdolfs Blaumanis [very famous Latvian writer and playwright]. The cemeteries are invariably beautiful parks with mature trees, the graves lovingly tended. So the photo of the Ērgļi cemetery is for you Christina.
Thank you for all who have written. Juris has apparently solved the problem which has made it difficult to log a comment on the blog.
Jāna [again], Dan, Mark, Jānis [who I am still hoping will walk with me], Fran [always an enthusiastic supporter], Des [who I had hoped might be provoked by the mention of Steven Carroll], Ruta [whose request will be acted upon], my Mežaparks neighbour Eva whom I last saw at the Melbourne Recital Centre playing first violin with Kremerata Baltica, Ian [the fix-it man wanting to do work stuff] and Susan, like me married into the Latvian world, with Pēteris [whose Latvian School geography class 'sponsored' my walk across Latvia last year]. And Clare who is in Vancouver and has just completed the GWT [Great West Track]. She sent me the link to her photos, which are great, though when after 10 minutes I was still on day 2, I thought I was in for a long viewing. But day 3 was the finish. And Michelle who is in Saudi Arabia, and sent a very newsy letter and will be interested to hear that Gunārs and Ilze are in Latvia at the moment. And Sue, my occasional rogaining partner, and wife of Colin who completed the Australian Alps Walking Track with me in 2005. Clare, Michelle and Sue & Colin [and Christina &Chris] were most of the very select, surprise 60th birthday party Anita organised for me two years ago. I hope I haven't forgotten anyone.
Today, once I hit the Ērgļi road it was 28km straight on. The first half was bitumen though the verges were OK to walk on and the traffic infrequent – at times 10-15 minutes between cars. The road was later gravel – the loose white dusty gravel which is hard to walk on as it shifts under your feet. And the dust; on one occasion after a logging truck passed it took 20-30 seconds for the dust to clear.
Tomorrow I will stay with Gunta at her place near Zaube and replenish my maps and other necessities. I will pass through Līčupe [where Lija had her Summer Camp last year and I called by on my walk for her last night concert – this year she is at Mazsalaca and I will attend her last night concert immediately after finishing the walk on the Estonian border about 30km north of Mazsalaca].
So tomorrow, from Līčupe to Zaube will be the only overlap with the walk last year. I hope to walk along the now-closed railway line from Ērgļi to Taurupe. This afternoon I had a look at the start of the track near the old Ērgļi station – it seems quite overgrown. I hope it is better further on. There is always the road but it is longer and I have been looking forward to the train tracks.
I try not to think too much about the day after. The walk to Cēsis from Zaube will be about 45-50km. It will be the thought of finishing up at Selga's and Juris' place that will keep me going – into the night if necessary. But let's not worry beyond tomorrow for the moment.

Day 5 – Sunday 2 August

Jēkabpils to Mežezers
26km [161km]; 5 hours 30 minutes
Weather fine
Mežezers [forest lake] is a swimming and skiing resort, depending on the season. Apart from this hotel the resort seems to have fallen into a state of disrepair. The main building has a domed roof – like a missile silo. It is huge, but is literally falling down. And yet the shop off to one side has stacks of ski boots. There are signs warning about the danger of collapse.
In fact it reminds me very much of Gaiziņkalns [Latvia's highest mountain with ski tows to the top where there is a 14-storey tower which is crumbling and must surely soon be pushed down before it collapses]. Mark and I were there last year. Thanks for your comments on the blog Mark. I hope you realised that the first photo on Day 2 was for you – you would have noticed the bulldog between my host at Sventes Ezers, Juris, and his mother in front of their house.
I have taken photos of the ski tow and the water slide to give some idea of the facilities. My photo of the dome doesn't show how dreadful it is so I won't bother with it. Ziedonis mentioned that at some stage Mežezers had been used as a communist youth camp. However, apart from the missile silo, there are no real vibes. There are so many abandoned Soviet-era buildings – typically using stark white bricks.
Today was excellent walking. Māra came to see me off and take photos. I left at 7:40 and had one stop of 15 minutes at about 10:30. Momentum is everything – early start, good pace, short infrequent stops and no days off. Otherwise it would be impossible to achieve long distances. A lightish pack, reasonable accommodation and regular meals help. I have just finished a great fish meal pre-ordered earlier this afternoon with the chef from his oral menu of four possible meals. I have been the only customer so far tonight. The place seems to be run by a staff of 4 or 5 young people. It has had loud music amplified inside and outside all afternoon. I have room No 99 – which seems to be the best of about 15-20 rooms. Huge bed, en-suite, television – I couldn't hope for more.

This morning I walked out of Jēkabpils [or really Krustpils as Juris reminded me – the wrong side of the Daugava]. I chose the hotel because it was on the way out of town. I probably should have walked a little further today and stayed in Jēkabpils proper!
I walked about 5km to clear the town. Then for the next 3 hours I did not see a car on the road and only one person. Even the dogs weren't barking. It was incredibly peaceful. The shorter highway route would have been a disaster. The maps were entirely accurate but with a need for fairly constant attention to keep on track. Sandy roads, rolling farmland and regular patches of forest.
There was a brief period of highway walking as I walked through Plaviņas. I crossed and re-crossed the Daugavpils rail line a few times today. After Plaviņas, there was some uncharacteristically steep country. Again the roads and tracks were minor and deserted. The route finding was subtle but the maps were precise. A very satisfying day.
Tomorrow I must decide whether to walk direct to Ērgļi, basically the last 28km on a fairly main road or take a longer by-way for part of the way. I am feeling pretty weary in the legs, but I will see how I feel in the morning.
This afternoon I finished Steven Carroll's The Gift of Speed. It is the second book in his Glenroy Trilogy. I read the first, The Art of the Engine Driver, in Riga. I brought them over for Selga – she having grown up in Oak Park [the suburb before Glenroy] in the 50s and 60s like Carroll. The last in the series, The Time We Have Taken, won the Miles Franklin award three years ago. I have enjoyed the books – they bring back my memories of growing up in an outer Melbourne suburb [though a southern one]. And yet I have my reservations; the writing is very good but does not really engage me. I seem to hear echoes of Gerard Murnane, another northern Melbourne suburbs author [Watsonia or McLeod] whom I admire.

Day 4 – Saturday 1 August

Zasa to Jēkabpils
30km [135km]; 6 hours 40 minutes
Weather fine, then shower
The television and newspaper interviews are done. Lāsma phoned me just as I was emerging from the forest and as the rain started to pelt down. I could have given her a grid reference but that wouldn't have helped. I told her I was 30 minutes from Freedom Road. Eventually we met up – Lāsma, her daughter Kate, a camera operator [female] and driver [male]. From our telephone conversation it was obvious that Lāsma's English was excellent. Nevertheless I opted to be interviewed in Latvian. It was mercifully short though we chatted off air for quite a while. Then it was time for a series of walk-by shots – camera set up ahead on the side of the road as I walked purposefully towards it, car driving just ahead and to the side of me with camera-person shooting out the window, etc. Lāsma will send me the web-site address to access the final version.
I reached the hotel soon after – basically a pool, spas and saunas with five rooms in a separate part of the building. The room is good. Had time for a shower before I received calls from Ilze and Māra. They both spoke very quickly and although I made arrangements with each of them, I wasn't exactly sure what they were.
About half an hour later, there was a loud banging on my door. I was quite perturbed but what could I do but open it. It was the receptionist who said there was a woman waiting for me downstairs. It was Māra and a colleague. We sat in the reception area and started talking.
The first question was the hard one – Why? I had rehearsed a few answers – I like walking, I want to see Latvia, my wife and our daughters are Latvian and ... that's when I started to fizzle out, but Ilze phoned and asked me where I was. I was trying to answer that question when she appeared.
So the inquisition continued – with both barrels. Neither Māra nor Ilze had [or used] more than a couple of words of English, but they seemed happy enough by the end. Then it was photo time. Or a chance for the hosts to get a free plug – we went poolside. Māra will return in the morning for a photo of me leaving.
I have just finished dinner. I had crossed back over the Daugava looking for an eating house. I wasn't successful, but did find a church to photograph. I came back over the river and after enquiring at the supermarket, I was directed to the restaurant/bar over Riga Street. I ordered soup. One had cream in the description so I chose the other. Bad choice. When it arrived I knew that mauve = beetroot, my least favourite food. But I had no option – and I ate it all up. Chicken shashlik to follow but not a patch on the Tex-Mex meal last year at Iecava.
I was the only diner for a while – though there seemed to be plenty of activity in the bar downstairs. A couple came in later and the young woman greeted me warmly, which surprised me as it seemed she knew me. Later, I got into a conversation with her: I had not realised that they were the couple that had been shown to their room at the same time as I had been. She was from Liepāja, whereas I was in a state of exhaustion.
I did actually do some walking today and a couple of navigation errors cost me about 40 minutes. The first time I missed a turnoff but realised 400m later when I struck the main road. The second time I turned off too soon and, after following a reasonable track for about 50m, it deteriorated badly. I struggled on through wet waist-high grass and black boggy marshland. Eventually I did turn back – after far too long though.
I blame my water bottles. I filled both with water from bottles I had bought last night. However the thread on the plastic top must have worn. It is no longer watertight and water kept dripping down the back of my pants. I tried everything – even wrapping the bottle in a plastic bag. I thought of tipping out some water, but found I had screwed the lid on so tightly [to stop it leaking] that now it wouldn't undo. All this made for a sluggish start, but once I hit the long straight forest roads I picked up a bit of speed.
Tomorrow should be fairly relaxed, though I must decide whether to walk beside the main bitumen road or follow a meandering sequence of minor roads and tracks. I have a leaning but will not reveal it till tomorrow!

Day 3 – Friday 31 July

Munči to Zasa
41km [105km]; 8 hours 10 minutes
Weather fine [just]
A long hard slog today – about 5km into the forest, then 5km of pleasant forest, over 20km along dead straight wide forest roads and 10km out of the forest. One stretch of road was 12km without a bend. The rain held off until the last ten minutes. I should have left 20 minutes earlier, but there was Asterija's guest book to complete and I did fill out the local tourist authority's questionnaire.
Today, I just put my head down – stopped in Dviete after 3km to do some shopping and take a photo of the local church, though can't say if it is catholic or orthodox. Two stops in the forest for a quick drink and bite to eat – about 10-15 minutes each time. I bought three bananas today – very ripe but energy plus.
There were km markers near to Zasa and I was able to check my speed – just over 6kph, so I have picked up my speed. Another reason for the increased pace was the almost constant swarms of march flies which I attempted to out-walk, without success. They attack silently and you generally only become aware of them because of the sting. I had to protect myself and I am sorry to report that there were many casualties. Fortunately they do not squash messily.
The road surfaces were not too bad – moist compacted sand so my feet have not suffered too much. These sorts of days still have their moments, though just getting through is the main task.

Only one conversation – Andris was riding his bike through the forest. He stopped to say hello and to tell me that he had been bird watching and taking photos. He showed me his binoculars, camera and map. I took his photo. I hope you see some today – my attempts to send them through have not yet been successful.

I have just been locked into the house for the night by Inese [the caretaker]. It is a quite large old manor house. I am in sole occupation for the night [for 3 lati or about AUD 7.50] with breakfast an extra lats.
Inese will come back in the morning to unlock and provide breakfast at 7am. Tomorrow is a lighter walking day – probably less than 30km and similar to today – into the forest, long straight boring road though the forest and the walk into town. Jēkabpils is one of the 10 largest towns in Latvia. I am staying at a health resort in the centre of town – the accommodation is apparently a sideline, and I will be able to eat out.
The biggest challenge tomorrow will be to survive my media commitments – two area newspapers [Ilze from Brīvā Daugava and Māra from Jaunais Vēstnesis. However, Lāsma from the local TV station, Vidus Daugava, wants to intercept me whilst walking into town for some action shots. I have refused to do radio interviews though – it seems too immediate with no opportunity to edit at least a few passable comments from the interviews.
Why am I doing this? I'm not really sure. In part because I know that I will be treated gently and also because I feel a degree of responsibility. I hope that at least a few people might derive some degree of fuzzy feeling that a non-Latvian is making a serious attempt to get to know their land. I have gained immeasurably from my involvement in Latvian culture and this is a small gesture in return.
Finally, I need to produce some interesting new material for a talk I am giving on 23 August, two days after we arrive back. The talk will be at a champagne breakfast at the Hilton Hotel and will be illustrated by yet another slideshow, hopefully with television footage.
The breakfast is a fundraiser for the 53rd Latvian Arts Festival to be held in Melbourne over six days at the end of December 2010. Anita is the Festival organiser and it is the main focus of Anita's trip to Latvia – organising guests.
So, the breakfast – I will be speaking in English [apart from the TV interviews]; come along and support a very good cause.
Finally, I heard the sad news that Ivars Dragūns has died. He will be sadly missed. He made a very considerable contribution to Latvian life in Melbourne. Ivars's son Markus is a friend of Jāna's and we are thinking of him.

Day 2 – Thursday 30 July

Lake Svente to Munči
32km [64km]; 7 hours 30 minutes
Weather warm

Fantastic walking for most of the day. The tracks were generally narrow and soft – easy pleasant walking, although, along the Daugava River, in places the sand was too soft and it was like walking along a beach.

The day was in three parts – the walk into Svente from the lake through rolling hills, then through a forest and finally along the river. At Svente, I wanted to buy lunch but the two shops yielded very little. I would have bought the two bananas on offer a week ago, for preference.


I took photos of the local catholic church and the manor house. The latter was a little over-elaborate for my taste; the church, as usual, was the most interesting building in the town.
The forest was extensive. I should not have tried the shortcut. But it was hot and the thought of a shaded walk was seductive. I reckon I was about 500m from the road on the other side of the forest when I turned back. Six kilometres later I was on the other side of the forest, having gone the way I should have in the first place. And this time both maps showed a way [my way] through.
I have been walking quite slowly these two days – about 5.5kph, though the 6km to get to where I should have been took me about 50 minutes. I have been telling myself what a wonderful activity walking is; nine days ago was my last day at work: it had been very stressful, as had been the last week and the last month. Particularly so. And here I was, strolling through Latvia with nothing to worry about. Until I could not find a track through the forest: one that should have been there. There was not only the six kilometres back to where I had been, but the extra hour or so and the additional few kilometres I spent searching for the track that should have been there, but wasn't.
The Daugava walk restored my equilibrium, until I arrived at Munči [a town of perhaps a dozen buildings, though quite spread out. I phoned my host, but her rapid-fire Latvian was too much for me. I could hear a dog barking in the background so I knew I wasn't in the vicinity. I started walking back the way I had come. I told my host that I could see daudz govis [poor spelling and grammar I know, but it took me a while to remember that it should have been the genitive plural, govju. There were an unusually large number of cows in an enclosure. By that stage my host was saying durvis, durvis; kur ir durvis? – where is the door? Durvis, govis – I had always thought they sounded different.
Fortunately, I then saw a young guy on the road. Ludzu I cried. Please! Then I corrected myself, Sakiet ludzu, kur ir naktsmītnes? – 'Excuse me, where is the bed & breakfast?' He looked at me for a moment. Recognising that oral directions were useless, he put down what he was carrying and headed back the way I had just come. 500m later, we arrived. He pointed down the driveway and left. I had been just another passing inconvenience.
Asterija [my host – whose name rhymes with hysteria – my condition by then] was waiting for me. We have had a few more conversations since then. Sometimes, I have tried just nodding. It works for a while but she expects more from me. She gave me a Latvian newspaper to read and a two page questionnaire to complete, in Latvian, from the local tourist authority.
She lives in a century-old house – very similar to Gunta's house near Zaube but unrenovated. She lives in one half, though our paths crossed at dinnertime in the kitchen. She invited me to share a dinner of beans from her garden. A type of broad bean, that went very well with my beef stroganoff. Washed down with kefīrs [a yoghurt-type drink] fresh from the local dairy – where all the cows, that I had tried to use to tell Asterija where I was, actually were.
At dinner, Asterija told me how hard it was to live on her pension [150 lats or AUD500] per month. The Latvian economy is almost an inevitable part of any discussion. Last night though, Jana [my fellow house guest] was insistent that the best things in life don't require money – family, enjoying nature, etc.: it was an uplifting conversation. Asterija with her old, but full-of-character house overlooking the Daugava River, is required to lead a very simple and frugal life. I have already been very lucky with the people I have met on this trip.
As I arrived here, I thought to myself: I have 17 hours to recover before setting off again. Nearly half that time has passed and I must tackle an even larger forest tomorrow. No short cuts!